Bouldering In Brittany

Pink Granite Coast : Climbing

  La Bouteille  

Enough of the bouldering, what about the climbing?

Climbing can be found at several locations along the Pink Granite Coast. This is a simple summary of the areas that are known to me. Please note that I have only climbed at the first of these 3 areas. You will need the local map (0714 OT Lannion, Perros-Guirec) to find these crags.

Working from East to West:

Pointe du Sphinx

A compact granite outcrop, well above the sea, just outside (north) of Perros Guirec. Continue uphill, past the Sphinx Hotel and park in the vicinity of the first turn on the right. Walk down this turning, past a solitary house, and continue along the footpath. The climbs can be found on the second outcrop.
I counted three bolted routes but there may be more? Pleasant enough climbing, particularly on the bolted slab, but nothing particularly memorable. Relatively easy access to set up top ropes and fixed ropes for shunts (as I did). A rack of gear would be useful for the easier looking groove lines, which are not bolted, if you have a belayer. Take care with the rock in places.
A good family beach can be found just to the east at Plage de Trestrignel.

  Pointe du Sphinx

Rocher du Diable

This is not shown on the map but Rocher du Diable lies just to the south of Squewel at Porz Rolland. Several superb and hard (very hard) looking routes. Some bolts but a rack of gear is almost certainly required too. These routes look as good as anything I've seen/done in Cornwall. You will be sure to attract plenty of attention from the passing tourists!
No decent family beaches here I'm afraid but there is a free museum adjacent to the lighthouse at Men Ruz and the coastal path provides a very interesting walk with superb scenery.

  Rocher du Diable

Squewel

This is the place for you if deep water soloing is your thing. Swim across the narrow channel at high tide with your gear stashed in a waterproof bag. The routes look atmospheric and very worthwhile but the rock is prone to some dampness. Alternatively, if you have a rack of gear and a belayer you can walk across at low tide and lead the routes in conventional style.
See the comments under Rocher du Diable for suitable family attractions whilst you are vertically engaged.

  Squewel

Other Areas

There is a good deal of worthwhile climbing (fully bolted) and also bouldering (numbered circuits) on granite at Primel Tregastel which is within easy reach of the Pink Granite Coast (about 35 miles to the west). The link below, in a new window, provides very useful information and access to a selected topo in a pdf format :

http://lester.univ-ubs.fr:8080/%7Egogniat/Grimpe_Morlaix/top.htm

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