Pink Granite Coast : Bouldering
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Introduction The local map, 0714 OT Lannion Perros Guirec, is essential to find your way around the area. Many of the notable boulders are listed and named on this map. The bouldering on the Pink Granite Coast is described in the following sections: |
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Some of the Bouldering Locations :
i) Sentier des Douaniers (The Custom Officers Path)
For Tourists the most popular and accessible section of the Pink Granite Coast lies between the Ranolien camping site and the lighthouse at Men Ruz. There are hundreds of scattered granite blocks on this section of the coast but unfortunately the bouldering is rather disappointing. The UFO boulder and the Paraboule boulder are notable exceptions. Explore and enjoy.
Conservation : In an effort to reduce erosion of the soil and vegetation, low level wire cordons have been placed around some of the boulders. Please respect such restrictions and move amongst these boulders with an appropriate degree of care and respect for the environment. I am not aware of any restrictions or limitations on climbing but please use your common sense at all times. |
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ii) Ile Aux Lapins
Of minor interest only. Approach in a few minutes at lowish tide from the western edge of La Greve Blanche. See here for further details.
iii) Le Gouffe
Some potential for short routes, see photos and brief description
iv) La Couronne du Roi Gradlon
A pleasant venue with just enough on offer to warrant a short visit. See details
v) Coz Porz Tregastel
By far the best concentration of bouldering that I found was on the beach at Coz Porz, Tregastel, adjacent to Les Triagoz cafe. Park at the car park opposite to the aquarium and walk the short distance to the rather gritty beach. Alternatively, a much better family beach, with toilets and also a nearby cafe, can be found at La Greve Blanche just to the south. Coz Porz is easily accessible from La Greve Blanche on foot, along the coastal path, in about ten minutes.
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The boulders at Coz Porz, Tregastel. Photo taken at mid-tide.
The boulders here are tidal and mid to low tide is required to approach them. The best bouldering is found on the two large blocks (pictured above). Unfortunately, I do not know the French names for the two boulders, I have therefore called the large block "Big Bloc" (in the foreground above) and the smaller boulder "Little Bloc" which is just visible on the left, see photo above. A number of belay bolts have been placed at the top of Little Bloc (the hangers have been removed) so these boulders have certainly been climbed on before. Please note that the first few feet of the problems are prone to tidal dampness that can make things feel somewhat harder. Ideal conditions are experienced at low to mid tide in the afternoon once the rock has had a few hours to dry out.
The landings are superb; sandy and soft. A bouldering mat is not therefore essential although this would certainly help to keep boots dry.
English adjectival/technical grades are provided; any feedback would be welcome, including suggestions for V or B grades and details of other problems.
Big Bloc A large boulder, probably reaching a maximum height of 60 feet. The seaward face is particularly sea washed, smooth and holdless. The first two problems can be found on the right hand side of the landward face: 1. Left Face 5c * 2. Right Face 5b * From the ledge at the top of these two problems you can amble up the arete to the top of the bloc at about Severe. Getting off from this ledge involved a gripping partial descent of Right Face and then a jump. Superb challenges remain on this bloc, the undecut sidewall looks particularly testing. |
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Click on the thumbnails to view the full images: |
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Little Bloc |
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Welcome to a seaside paradise. A bit smaller than Big Bloc and very pleasantly slabby. Some of the problems here are rather highball and I have therefore included adjectival grades where appropriate. Please note that the starts of these routes are prone to dampness, allow sufficient time after low tide for the base of the slab to dry. A selection of the better routes/problems are as follows:
3 Left Arete 6a **
The best problem here. A very thin start just to the right of the arete leads to good chicken heads. Finish rather more easily with an exhilarating final stretch for the flutings at the top. E2.
4 Centre Slab 5b **
Thin climbing but nowhere desperate. Move right to the large chicken head. A rather bold direct finish must surely be possible (and harder?). E1.
5 Arete 4c **
Gain the short crack via the chicken heads (easier than it looks) and swing right to finish up the juggy arete. Super climbing. VS.
5a Arete Direct 5a **
Avoid moving right onto the arete and follow the blind crack. HVS?
6 Arete Variation Start 5a/b *
From the very edge of the slab tip toe rightwards above the undercut to gain and finish up the arete.
7 Traverse 5b *
A right to left traverse at just under half height to gain Left Arete. Jump off (5b) or finish up the arete E1. A good way onto Left Arete if the start is particularly damp.
Click on the thumbnails to view the full images: |
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The seaward face of Little Bloc is also smooth and 'holdless'. The landward face, however, is rather more accommodating:
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8 Shallow Groove 5a
Awkward holds to start but quickly eases.
9 Left Edge 4c
Move leftwards from the start of Shallow Groove.
P Project
Requires a huge dyno or much more strength than I have.
10 Groove 5a
The chimney moving right onto the rib at the top. Hard if damp.
To the right a long easy angled slab, Fun Slab photo runs up to the summit of Little Bloc. This can be climbed just about anywhere and is ideal, with a top rope, for the young or inexperienced.
Other problems can be found on the outlying boulders. The flake just above the concrete jetty can be climbed on the left at 4c and on the right at 4b. Take care on the less frequented problems.
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